On the night of August 17, 2026, the medieval fishing village of Portovenere transforms into a living painting of fire and devotion for the Festa della Madonna Bianca — the feast of the White Madonna. Over 2,000 Roman torches (fiaccole romane) are lit along the village’s ancient walls, the rocky promontory of Punta San Pietro, and the pathways leading up to the church of San Lorenzo. The effect is mesmerising: the entire coastline glows amber against the black Ligurian Sea, a spectacle visible from across the Gulf of Poets.

The Story Behind the Festival

The festival dates back to 1399, when Portovenere was under Genoese rule and the village was struck by plague. According to tradition, a devout local named Luccardo retrieved a faded Byzantine icon of the Madonna from a house on Via del Comune — miraculously, the painting’s colours restored themselves to vivid brilliance, and the plague soon subsided. The icon, now known as the Madonna Bianca, has been Portovenere’s protector ever since. The original 14th-century painting is preserved inside the Chiesa di San Lorenzo, which serves as the Santuario della Madonna Bianca.

The Procession

The evening begins around 20:30, when the torches are lit one by one along the village walls, the staircase to the church, and the entire Punta San Pietro headland — a rocky finger jutting into the sea at the very edge of the village. The procession of the Madonna Bianca begins at 21:00, as the faithful carry the venerated icon through Portovenere’s narrow caruggi, accompanied by hymns, the village band, and a sea of candle-bearing participants. The icon is then carried down to the harbour and placed on a decorated boat for a brief sea procession across the bay, with dozens of small fishing boats following in its wake — their lights dancing across the water.

The Byron Connection

At the tip of Punta San Pietro, beneath the ancient Romanesque church of San Pietro, lies the Grotta di Byron (Byron’s Grotto) — a natural sea cave where the English poet Lord Byron is said to have swum and meditated during his stay in the Gulf of Poets in 1822. On the night of the festival, the grotto and the surrounding cliffs are bathed in torchlight, creating an almost mystical atmosphere. It’s no wonder the Romantic poets were drawn here.

Plan Your Visit

Getting there: From La Spezia, take bus 11/P (30 minutes) or the seasonal ferry from La Spezia’s Passeggiata Morin (40 minutes, with stunning coastal views). Ferries also connect Portovenere to the Cinque Terre villages in summer.
Best viewing: The steps leading up to Chiesa di San Pietro offer a panoramic view of the torchlit promontory. The harbour wall gives the best perspective of the sea procession. Arrive by 19:00 to find a good spot.
Dining: Book a harbourside table early. Restaurants along Calata Doria serve fresh mussels (Portovenere is famous for its muscoli — mussels, a local speciality), stuffed anchovies, and Vermentino from the nearby Colli di Luni vineyards.
Swimming: Come in the afternoon for a swim off the rocks near the Grotta di Byron — the water is impossibly clear. Bring water shoes; the rocks are sharp.

Extend Your Trip Along the Coast

Portovenere is the gateway to both the Gulf of Poets and the Cinque Terre. Pair the festival with a visit to Tellaro and Lerici, the charming fishing villages across the bay, or use our 5-day Liguria itinerary to plan an unforgettable summer trip. For the full coastal experience, don’t miss our guide to the best sunset spots in Liguria — and for the perfect pairing, explore the food and wine of Liguria to taste what makes this corner of Italy so special.